Old Bisbee Brewing Company

Bisbee, AZ
200 Review Alley
520-432-BREW
http://oldbisbeebrewingcompany.com

My wife and I spent a wonderful Thanksgiving in Sierra Vista Arizona with my brother and his family. One of the highlights of the weekend was a trip to the old mining town Bisbee in the mountains east of Sierra Visa. Bisbee was founded as a gold, silver and copper mining town in the 1880s. The huge, and now dormant, open pit mine east of town reminded me of a smaller version of "the pit" in Butte Montana. Now the town serves as a tourist trap and artist hangout. A perfect place for a brewery!

The Old Bisbee Brewing Company is not that old at all – opening only eight months ago. The brewery is split between two buildings. A small brewhouse contains their custom built 10-barrel mashing and lautering system as well as four fermentation vessels. Across the narrow alley sits the taproom and all of the serving vessels. Both buildings are fairly small, with the taproom seating only 30 people. To transfer beer between the two locations, the owners actually jack hammered up the alley and ran lines under the asphalt.

Favorite Beer

During our brief visit I sampled Bisbee’s Copper City Ale, Wit, fine Imperial Stout, IPA, and easy drinking Pale Ale. My favorite was their Copper City Ale – a Nut Brow Ale. (OG 1.052, FG 1.018, 4.5% abv) The color was blood red and it was served almost completely flat with no head at all. The nose was of toasty malt, becoming stronger as my pint warmed.

A strong biscuit malt character dominated the flavor with notes of dark crystal and no hop preseience at all. Copper City finished with dry toasty malt and a touch of diacetyl. It was dark in color, but quite light on the palate. Copper City is definitely an “old school” Brown Ale employing dark crytal (120 L) and over 14% Victory malt (hence the biscuit and toasty flavors), so it relies on a stong dose of amber malt (Victory) instead of chocolate malt in the gain bill. All of their beers I sampled, except for the Wit, were served relatively flat. They were also served fairly cold. Except for the Wit, all contained noticable diactyl.

Tours

Tours are available upon request. The brewers are also open to letting people just walk into the brewhouse and look around. Co-owner and brewer Dale Fountaine happened to be prescent when we visited. He was very friendly and willing to answer any questions we had about history, process, business, etc. Dale was proud that Old Bisbee Brewing does not have any secrets. All recipes, mash schedules, and fermentations notes are proudly displayed for any patron to view – with a clipboard hanging on each of the serving vessels in the taproom where everyone sits.

Worth Noting

Both Dale and his partner Victor Winquist are in thier 60s. Dale noted that they just brew and own the business to be happy, and getting big is not a priority. Neither were homebrewers, but both had extensive experience in the wine industry. Victor’s daughter Mindy is officially the head brewer.

Bisbee is a very eclectic tourist town and worth a visit if you are in the area. Old Bisbee Brewing Company does not bottle or keg, so the only place to get their beer is directly from the taproom. (growlers are available) This young brewery is still working out some small kinks, but while in Bisbee a visit to this taproom is must for any true beer lover.

Zoiglbier

Last month I had the opportunity to visit the Vaterland again, and considering how this part of the world is the epicenter for brewing and beer culture, there are many things I could write about. My friends, Matt & Skye, and I could not have possibly packed more beer experiences into our short eight-day visit than we did. We attended the Wiesn Wirteinzug (opening parade of the Oktoberfest), visited Austria’s greatest brewery, beer hall and Biergarten, Kloster Mülln in Salzburg, enjoyed a Weißbier at the Watzmannhaus after a 4000 vertical foot hike straight up to some of the most spectacular scenery in Bavaria, enjoyed the famous Braüstuberl in Tegernsee, and successfully completed the eight mile walking tour of the four breweries in the town of Aufseß (so Matt and Skye could also become Fränkische Ehrenbiertrinker – honorary beerdrinkers of Franconia). But to cap off our trip, we had a truly special and unique beer drinking experience, and that is what I will be writing about in this blog – drinking Zoiglbier and visiting authentic Zoiglstube.

What is Zoigl?

Don’t worry if you have never heard of Zoigl before… even if you are a self-identified beer expert. Most Germans do not know what Zoigl is either – including a majority of Bavarians! I suppose this is not too surprising. Germans are world-renowned beer lovers, but they tend to drink local and pay little attention to what is going on down the road. Zoigl is a very regional thing, and few outside of Oberpfalz know much about it.

Zoigl is more than beer. The term encompasses a number of things; the brewers, the process, ancient property rights, and community - all in addition to the drink itself. (More about that in the next paragraph.) Zoiglbier falls into the category of what most would call Kellerbier or Zwickel. It is a relatively flat, unfiltered lager beer that is served directly out of the keg after a maturation period that is much shorter than most traditional lagers.

Zoigl may be a Kellerbeir-type of beer, but not all Kellerbier is Zoigl. Zoigl is special, and is defined by a unique set of circumstances. Authentic Zoiglbier is made by communal brewers who take turns using a town brewhouse. Each brewer has their own recipe; so all Zoigl beers are slightly different. Zoiglbier is brewed using local ingredients and traditional practices including the use of wood fired kettles. At the conclusion of the brew day in the communal brewhouse, the brewer takes the wort back to their own cellars to ferment and briefly age. The beer is then served directly in their own home. This communal approach to brewing, as well as the brewing right itself, is very unique. And it is specifically unique to the Oberpfalz region in northeastern Bavaria. This Zoigl tradition goes back hundreds of years. For example, the Zoiglbraurecht (right to brew and serve Zoigl) dates back to 1455 in the town of Windischeschenbach and to 1415 in Neuhaus. At that time property owners received the right to brew and distribute beer in their home. This right remains valid today and is tied to the property and house. The Zoiglbraurecht is passed along from owner to owner in the property’s deed.

Since the late middle ages there have been dozens of communal breweries all across Oberpfalz, but over the years most have closed down due to a variety of reasons. Today only five true “Zoigl towns” remain: Windischeschenbach, Neuhaus, Eslarn, Falkenberg and Mitterteich. The center of Zoigl activity is in Windischeschenbach and Neuhaus – two small burgs separated only by the Waldnaab River. Each of these two towns has seven communal brewers. (Mitterteich has three, and Eslarn and Falkenberg have only one each.) Zoiglbier can be found in these locations, but not just at any time. Zoiglbier is always served over a “long weekend” that starts on Friday and lasts through Monday or Tuesday depending on the family. Patrons are often served in the family room or kitchen, though some have a special guest rooms for the occasion. The brewers take turns and rotate hosting with one or two Zoiglstube being open over any given weekend.

The Zoiglstern

Upon arriving in one of the Zoigl towns, there are two ways to find out where to get authentic Zoiglbier. First, one can consult the Zoiglkalender, posted in the local newspaper, or published online in the case of Windischeschenbach and Neuhaus. The other, old-fashioned way is to look for the Zoiglstern. (Zoigl Star)

When a Zoiglstube is open, they will hang this star in front of their house. The Zoiglstern looks like the Star of David, though there is no connection with the Jewish symbol. The six-pointed star is an ancient, medieval sign of the brewer, and its association with beer remains today. It can still be seen on the label of some Bavarian beers, and it is still a symbol of Zoigl in Oberpfalz. The star can be plain or it may have a mug in the center. It is believed that the term Zoigl actually stems from this tradition of using the star to guide locals to beer. The star is an indicator, “Zeiger” in German, that beer is being served. In the local dialect the word Zeiger morphed into Zeigel, and eventually Zoigl. Many locals to this day still say, “Geh’n ma am Zeigel!”


Zoiglstub’n

It would take a month and a half to visit all Zoigl homes since they are spread across five towns and their opening weekends rotate. This is something I want to do some day, but on this trip Matt, Skye and I had only one day, so we visited Windischeschenbach and Neuhaus where, on the Saturday we were in town, the Schoilmichl (Neuhaus) and Da Roude (Windischeschenbach) happened to be open. This worked out well since we could visit two Stub’n without getting in a car.

Da Roude

Even though we had a map, and knew exactly where we where we were going, we still walked right by Da Roude. From the outside the residence was very quiet. Besides a small star hanging above the door, there was no indication of activity. After finding the star, we tentatively


opened a large wooden door and found ourselves in a narrow court. There were a few tables in the court available for overflow seating, or for those wanting to enjoy the fresh air on warmer days. We soon found that a side door in the court led inside where all of the action was.

I made it through the door fine, but anyone slightly taller than me would need to duck to get through the stubby door. We walked right into a full house. Da Roude was a great introduction to the Zoigl experience. It felt weird taking a seat, because we were sitting in owner’s living room next to the kitchen. After the awkwardness wore off though, we felt right at home. It was packed, warm, and very cozy. As you can imagine, the setting was quite rustic with nailed down, weathered wood flooring, wainscot on the walls, arched stone windows, and dark ceiling beams. There was a stove and small woodpile in the kitchen right next to us. It was a very unique experience being served and drinking beer in a Bavarian home.

Here is a quick overview of their offering. Da Roude’s Zoiglbier was a pale orange beer that was hazy, but not cloudy, with a solid cream-colored head. It had a nose of light malt, and its flavor was snappy and spicy clean. It finished with a light, tangy malt note and just a slight hop presence. Overall it was very easy drinking and refreshing. Da Roude’s Zoigl was a well-rounded tangy and smooth beer with no fruity esters. I though of it as an unfiltered Märzen.

Schoilmichl

After enjoying a few Halbe at Da Roude, we trekked 20 minutes to Neuhaus where the Schoilmichl (pronounced with a ridiculously funny Bavarian accent) was open for the weekend. Schoilmichl was a bit less inconspicuous. In addition to the Zoigl star hanging from a pole mounted on the corner of the house it had a sign and large wooden keg out front. There was seating in front of the home, though most of the people were inside and downstairs in the Schoilmichl’s guest room. It was quite a bit larger than Da Roude, and (un)comfortably seated around 80 people.

Despite the low ceiling, the room was packed with hanging decorations of hops bines, Zoigl stars and banners. It resembled a rock the cellar of an old monetary, but packed with beer loving locals. One patron brought his accordian and was playing German favorites by request while everyone sang along. The atmosphere was buzzing.

Schoilmichl’s Zoigl was a hazy dark-golden color with a fresh lager nose. The flavor was that of a light Märzen with a medium body. The finish was well rounded and clean. This beer was not quite as spicy as Da Roude, and a bit drier with less of a malt presence.

In addition to their beer, the Zoigl establishments pride themselves in serving great regional specialties. Whether it is beer-garden-style cold cuts or a warm dish. At Da Roude we saw the owner in the kitchen slaving away cooking and dishing up their daily soup special for the hungry guests. These are very communal establishments, and their earnings go toward maintaining the town’s brewery and paying expenses. Profit is a secondary consideration, if one at all. The food and beer are ridiculously inexpensive. For example, at Schoilmichl we enjoyed seven beers, all half liters, and three dinners, huge plates of sausage


and sauerkraut so large we could barely finish, all for less than 23 Euros. It was almost unbelievable. Great food, world-class beer, and a truly unique experience that one can only have in this small part of the world.

There are a few other things to note. Some commercial breweries, especially in the Oberpfalz region, sell beers labeled as Zoigl. Despite the name I would not consider these authentic since they are made commercially. They are excellent beers that fit well in the Kellerbier category, just not true Zoigl. Also, in addition to the brewer’s home, there are a few other establishments they partner with were you can find Zoiglbier. So one may find other hotels, homes and restaurants that dispense the beer brewed by these communal brewers. Most Zoigl establishments have more information at their premises including maps and addresses for the other dispensaries. And to learn more you just need to travel to Bavaria and take it in. I know I did not get my fill, and I still have a lot to learn about Zoigl, so I’ll return some day when I have more time. I have listed some resources for your reference below. To conclude, I would like to thank J Mark Angelus for tipping me off to the Zoigl experience!

http://www.zoigl.de/ (good starting point)
http://www.zoiglbier.de/ (Windischeschenbach and Neuhaus site – includes their calendar)

Silverado Brewing Co.

St. Helena, CA
3020-A N. Hwy 29
707-967-9876
http://www.silveradobrewingcompany.com/

Last week my wife and I visited the Napa Valley for my Aunt and Uncle’s 50th wedding anniversary. While in the area I took the opportunity to pop into one of the local breweries - the Silverado Brewing Company. The Napa valley is primarily known for its superb wines, not beer, but as Silverado’s slogan goes, “it takes a lot of great beer to make good wine.” In addition to Silverado, there are two other breweries in the valley – the Napa Smith Brewery (Napa) and the Calistoga Inn Restaurant & Brewery (Calistoga). Silverado is located between those two on Highway 29 two miles north of St. Helena in the Freemark Abbey Winery building. (Though not connected in any way to the winery.)

There are three areas at Silverado where patrons can enjoy their handcrafted beers - in the restaurant, which features fresh, local and seasonal ingredients in their dishes, bellied up to the bar, or they can sit outside in the shade of a massive California live oak. Silverado Brewing is known as a local hangout featuring good food, reasonable prices, and frequented by many prominent local wine makers.

Favorite Brew

As usual I started with a sampler tray of their six offerings. This included a Blonde, Brunette, Rye, Amber, Pale Ale, and Oatmeal Stout. Years ago their Brown Ale was renamed “Brunette” so the blond on the tap handle could have a dark-haired companion. I enjoyed all of their beers, but my favorite was their Pale Ale. (5.67% abv / 55 IBU) This American Pale Ale is made with pale, rye and crystal malts, and hopped with Chinook, Cascade and Challenger. It was copper in color with a subdued, citrusy nose. The rye twang and crystal sweetness gave way to a solid hop backbone, but not nearly as heavy handed as many American Pale Ales. There was a pleasant touch of diacetyl in the finish. A very well balanced ale in my opinion.

Worth Noting

I thought it was interesting that three of their six beers contained rye malt – their Pale Ale, Stout, and obviously their Rye. I also detected diacetyl in most of their beers. This house flavor could result from their yeast strain or perhaps their fermentation process. Also, manager Jennifer Baum noted that their Blonde Ale, though not certified, contained mostly organic ingredients. Silverado is working on getting organic certification for their beers. All beers are brewed on their 10-barrel system, which is visible from the bar. Tours are available seven days a week at 11 o’clock.

While in town

While in the Napa Valley you have to visit some wineries. The atmosphere and smells alone are worth the visit in my opinion. And when you are ready for a break from wine, visit one of the three breweries in the valley, or pop over the hill to Santa Rosa and visit Russian River Brewing.

On a personal note

Not to toot my own horn, but… toot, toot. Last weekend my Germany Roggenbier, named Liquid Pumpernickel, took best of show in a BJCP certified competition. I rarely enter competitions, so when I do it is nice to get a positive result. For those of you that attended SBM XVIII back in June, you got to drink this beer... if you arrived early enough.

Red Meat & Scotch

Michael Jackson, a legend and hero for beer lovers across the globe, once famously said his true love was not beer, rather Whisky. (and yes, without the “e”) This should not be too much of a surprise. He has authored a number of books on the spirit. I too must admit I love the water of life, though I’m not sure I would place it above beer. Regardless of the rank, I strongly believe beer and Whisky go hand in hand. Whisky is basically distilled beer, right?

I started drinking Single Malts about 10 years ago as a way to lighten my load while backpacking high up in the Colorado mountains and still have something enjoyable to consume around the campfire. (Laphroaig 10 goes nice with a fire by the way.) The more I read and learned about Whisky the more interested I became.

And then one day at work a friend tipped me off to a gathering he and his friends had called Red Meat & Scotch. The concept of this event is that each person brings a bottle of Whisky and a steak, and everyone has a great time while learning about different malts


without having to spend a fortune in the process. Since that day in 2005, I started a tradition with my friends and we have taken turns hosting Red Meat & Scotch events twice per year. Each party comes complete with distillery maps of Scotland, flags, tasting notes (Jackson and others), Whisky poetry, Single Malt coffee table books, and pictures of Highland Cows. They are always enjoyable, and always require a designated driver – usually a very forgiving spouse.

The most recent gathering we had was quite special and unique. One of our friends is on the board of a kidney foundation, and they happened to be holding a silent auction. Twenty of us decided to go in and bid on a private tasting offered by Diageo. (A major beverage concern that owns, among other brands, Johnnie Walker, Guinness, and a number of distilleries.) Well, we won the auction, and last Friday night my wife and I hosted the lucky 20 in our basement for an evening with Diageo Master of Whisky Robert Stickler. By this time we were all pretty knowledgeable about the spirit and made sure he knew that so he could tailor his presentation accordingly. Robert did an excellent job. Wearing traditional attire and packing along bricks of peat, staves of oak, and a freshly distilled 160 proof spirit for us to sample, he did not disappoint. As much as we though we already knew, we all learned something from the event. And we all loved his enlightening toasts. Here is a list of what Robert brought with him:

Dalwhinnie 15 (Highland) – very drinkable
Singleton 12 (Speyside) – surprisingly complex
Carhhu 12 (Speyside) – the base for all Johnnie Walkers
Cragganmore 12 (Speyside) – floral, fruity and rich
Talisker 10 (Isle of Skye) – peat smoke, salt and sweetness
Coal Ila 12 (Isla) – a good example of an Isla

And after we all thought Robert was done, he surprised us all by pulling out his private stash of Bushmills. That’s right, Irish Whiskey to follow up all of the Scotch. I thought there might be a bit of a let down, but Robert did not disappoint. We started with the Bushmills Malt 10, then moved to the 16 Malt, 21 Malt and finished with the brilliant Bushmills 1608 (to honor the year the distillery was founded).

The mash used to make the 1608 contains crystal malt, which is unique, and a dram does have a nice oaky sweetness to it. We all thoroughly enjoyed the Bushmills selections. Irish Whiskey is triple distilled as opposed to the double distillation that is the norm in Scotland, so it tends to be a bit cleaner and smoother, but the Bushmills’ malts are very complex nonetheless.

My favorite of the first batch was the Singleton 12. Maybe because this malt was new to me. But I was pleasantly surprised by the complex nose with hints of fruit and nuts, medium body, and wonderful flavor of sweet fruit, brown sugar and a touch of coffee, topped off by a long elegant finish.

If you are a beer lover thinking about branching out, get some friends together for your own Red Meat & Scotch party. Don’t be afraid to allow Irish whiskey, American Whiskeys, and especially micro distilled Whiskies. Also, if you are interested in having a private tasting by a “Master of Whisky”, shoot me a note and I’ll provide you with Robert’s contact information. He will not disappoint.