Classic Waterin’ Holes – The “New” Atlas Bar

Columbus, MT
528 East Pike Avenue
(406) 322-9818

While back in God’s Country over the holidays, I had the chance to visit one of my favorite old west waterin' holes – The “New” Atlas Bar in Columbus. If you are traveling through Montana, there is a good chance you’ll end up on I-90 between Billings and Bozeman. While in the area make sure and stop off in Columbus and head “downtown” to The Atlas and blow the froth off a couple at this classic saloon.

History

This bar has a lot of history. Built in 1906 the bar boasts some unique features. Most first time visitors will notice that the men’s bathroom is in the back of the bar (complete with a Crane urinal trough), while the women’s bathroom is in the front near the main door. There is also a rustic game room in front.

There is a good explanation for this historic relic. In the old days women were not allowed past the front area into the main bar – that area was reserved for the men. Women had their own small section (the current game room) where they were packed in and served drinks through a window into the main bar. Their bathroom was across the walkway so there was no need to even consider straying further inside. Nowadays both sexes are welcome all the way inside, but the disassociated bathrooms remain. (More about other unique features in the next section…)

In the early twentieth century, this bar was called the “Atlas Bar.” Of course prohibition was a difficult period in our country’s past. Thankfully for all of us in 1933 cooler heads prevailed, and with the ratification of the 21st Amendment bars were back in business. It is rumored that the Atlas Bar received Montana’s first post-prohibition liquor license and was reborn as “The New Atlas Bar.” It has always been a main congregation spot for Stillwater county locals. Today it is known as one of most historically accurate, and most famous, bars in the state. When you walk in the front door you’ll feel like nothing has changed for the past 100 years. Last summer the National Park Service even added the bar to the National Register of Historic Places. Quite an honor for a small town saloon!

The Dead Animal Bar

The atmosphere in this bar is almost museum-like. The massive backbar is a work of art itself - composed of sturdy arches, wood columns, mirrors, and elaborate, dark-stained woodwork. It is adorned with notes, signs, and random currency plastered all over the place. Underneath the pressed tin ceiling, the long, narrow bar is packed with mounts of every critter you could imagine. Elk, whitetail & mule deer, mountain goats, bighorn sheep, a mountain lion, bobcat, wolverine, badger, eagles, buffalo, etc, etc, etc. There is even an albino deer and two-headed calf. Needless to say, this is not the place to take your card-carrying PETA friend for a drink. Most of these mounts have been around since at least 1916 – and they show it! This is the reason locals affectionately call the place “The Dead Animal Bar.”

Spittoons are mounted in the base of the bar to accommodate those belly-uppers that prefer their tobacco smokeless. When is the last time you drank a Pale Ale with a built-in brass pot at your feet? There are also pool tables in the back half of the Atlas to accommodate rural Montana’s favorite pastime. (Winning a few bucks and maybe getting into a little scrap.)

A few changes over the years…

Not many things have changed over the century, but one important one has – the beer selection. Yes, they have Bud, Bud Light, Miller, Coors, and of cause PBR, but they also have a great selection of craft bottles and drafts. On tap they offered Sam Adams Boston Lager, Bozone Amber (Bozeman, MT), Red Lodge Beartooth Pale Ale (Red Lodge, MT), and Bayern Dragon’s Breath Dunkelweizen (Missoula, MT). And in classic Montana fashion, 16oz micro drafts are only $2.50. Happy Hour is even cheaper! Great beer at this price really can’t be beat.

Old West Charm

In my September, 2011 blog entry titled “30 things to add to your to do list” number 13 recommended that one “Drink a local Montana craft beer in a real, old-school western watering hole.” For those checking items off their list - there are countless options for this one. The Hofbräu or Crystal in Bozeman, Grizzly Bar in Roscoe, Cowboy bar in Fishtail, Bulldog in Whitefish, Mooses in Kalispell… the list goes on and on. (What is your favorite?) But the New Atlas is a classic that can’t be missed. It is a totally unique experience and a great place to enjoy a few Montana brewed specialties. And then you can also brag that you’ve been to the Dead Animal Bar!

‘Tis The Season

It is that time of year again. The leaves have long since fallen, and snow is on the ground. This year has blown by and it is hard to believe it is already December. Speaking of December - on my beer calendar for this month there are a couple of important entries: keeping an eye out for winter warmers, and preparation for the upcoming Beerdrinker of the Year competition.

Seasonal Beers

This is a great time of the year for winter warmers. Most breweries brew something special for the cold weather – whether it is AC Golden’s Winterfest (Coors), Sierra Nevada’s Celebration, or your local brewpub’s specialty. It is a great time to visit your local brewery or pick up that special six-pack at the liquor store.

If you’re in the Denver area, one great place to go to try out a number of seasonals, including special releases, is the Falling Rock Tap House. (http://fallingrocktaphouse.com/) They’ve got specialties from Colorado, other parts of the country, Belgian Noels, and great beers from all over the world.

Tonight I happen to be bundled up at home, and I am partaking in 4 Calling Birds from The Bruery in Placentia, California. It is an 11% abv Belgian-Style Dark Ale, and the fourth in their annual series. (What will they do after 12?) For lovers of spiced beers, Barleywines, Strong Ales, Imperial Porters, and Wassail, this time of the year cannot be beat!

2012 Beerdrinker of the Year Search

You could be the next Beerdrinker of the Year. If you are reading this blog you are a beer lover – and that is the first step! To apply you need to submit a Beer Resume. This document must include your beer philosophy, details on your passion for beer, and your 2011 beer experiences. It should “detail the entrant’s understanding of beer and its history and importance to civilization, and the entrant’s efforts to educate others to the joys of great beer.” And all of this cannot exceed three 8.5 x 11″ pages in 12-point font. Your beer resume needs to be emailed into the Wynkoop no later than Saturday, December 31st. There are a few other rules, so make sure and check out the official Beerdrinker of the Year web site for all of the details. (http://wynkoop.com/component/content/article/14-events/208-2012-beerdrinker-of-the-year)

As an example, and to view the resume that got me into the finals, check out my 2009 resume. Each year, all of the beer resumes received by the Wynkoop are reviewed and thinned down to the top 10, at which point they are sent out to a panel of experts around the country to select the three finalists. Those lucky three will be flown to Denver for the finals on February 25th, 2012, at which time seven wigged & robed judges will ultimately select the winner.

The winner will receive free beer for life at the Wynkoop, $250 at their local brewpub or beer bar, apparel, and their name will be engraved on the Beerdrinker of the Year trophy at the Wynkoop Brewery.

A good resume will take some work, so hopefully you’ve already started, or are touching up a previous year’s application. (I submitted a resume in 1997 and 2005 before my 2009 resume got me to the finals.) I encourage all of you to take a shot at the ultimate beer accolade!

Denver Beer Company

Denver, CO
1695 Platte St, Denver, CO 80202
http://denverbeerco.com

Colorado now has over 120 craft breweries, and it seems like every month another one opens. Is there a market for all of these new breweries? Is there room for even more? It is definitely getting harder to make one’s product stand out in an already crowded liquor store beer rack. But Coloradians love their beer, and in Denver people love their neighborhoods. So when it comes to neighborhood brewpubs - not concerned about mass distribution - there does seem to be space for newcomers.

I recently visited the relatively new Denver Beer Company, which opened in August. This fine new craft brewery is located on Platte Street west of downtown and serves the Platte River Valley and Highland neighborhoods. Denver Beer Company was opened by Charlie Berger and Patrick Crawford. I’ve known Charlie for years from his time as a brewer at the Wynkoop. He is definitely one of those fun loving, gregarious people that is just a pleasure to be around.

He also knows his beer. Charlie attended the Siebel Institute of Technology and the Doemans Brewing Academy in Munich, and has earned his International Diploma in Brewing Technology. For those that attended SBM XVIII back in June of 2010, the “Hoppy Bunny” I served was a specially-dry-hopped blend of 2/3 Olde Rabbit (brewed by Andy Brown and I at the Wynkoop) and 1/3 “Charlie Wine”, a very strong Barleywine concocted by Mr. Berger.

Better use for an auto repair shop

The new neighborhood brewery is located in a renovated 3,400 square foot auto repair shop. To fill the void, Charlie and Patrick traveled out to Newington, Connecticut to purchase and pick up a used seven-barrel system from an old “Hops Grill” brewery that closed. Back in Denver on Platte Street, the tap room and brewery share the same large open space. When I arrived late on a Saturday afternoon there was that unmistakable humidity in the air and the wonderful smell of a fresh mash. Though packed with locals, there is plenty of room for everyone given the generous amount of floorspace. It is a unique atmosphere. In addition to the brew system in the back of the building, there are also oak barrels shoved against the walls here and there. Some of the old hydraulic lifts from the building’s auto repair days are still used to hold up tables and one corner of the bar.

There is a “beer garden” in front of the building along the street with a number of picnic tables. The large auto garage doors were closed when I visited, but open up to unite the indoor crowd and beer garden dwellers during warm days. Large, soft Bavarian style pretzels are served inside the pub, while a private food cart out front serves larger snacks outside.

Neighborhood Pale Ale - a new style?

And yes, the beer is good too! If you’re like me you typically look over a brewery’s web site before visiting to get a feel for what they offer. Don’t spend too much time doing that with The Denver Beer Company. They did not have a single beer on tap that was listed on their web page. To date every beer they have brewed has been unique. I’m sure at some point they will settle in and serve a few regulars in addition to the one-off beers, but for now it is a free for all. (in a good way)

I sampled their Hefeweizen, NPA (Neighborhood Pale Ale – locals provided homegrown hops), Stout and Whakapapa IPA. The IPA was my favorite. Whakapapa is a Maori word for “layered.” In this case layered… as in hops. (And yes, one of the hops came from New Zealand) The clear gold color was a bit deceiving. The beer was not clean at all having a pungent, sticky, resinous and very piney flavor, which led to a pleasant, lingering hop finish. The beer was brewed with US, German and New Zealand hops. It was definitely not one-dimensional and picked up flavors from the various hop additions from around the globe. It was a unique IPA that hop-lovers will enjoy. That is if there is any remaining.

So is there room for any more breweries in Colorado? If they are like the Denver Brewing Company, I believe so. And judging from the large crowd of locals, this new brewery will not have any trouble being successful.

The R-Bar is Back!

Earlier this month I returned to God’s Country to visit family and take in the MSU Homecoming weekend festivities. I took the short flight from Denver to Billings and, as usual, my parents were waiting for me in front of the airport. From Billings Logan we proceeded directly to the Railyard Ale House (A great music and craft beer establishment owned by my parents and managed by my Nephew) to check out what was new on tap. Shortly thereafter we wandered across the hall to Carter’s Brewery (they share the building) to sample some of Mike’s Belgian specialties. A great way to start off my trip.

Bozeman Bound

On Friday my father and I suited up and headed out to Bozeman. We arrived in the late afternoon via the Main Street exit off of I-90. The town was decorated with blue and gold and already buzzing with excitement. I was also excited, because this was to be my first look at the “new” Rocking R Bar.

For those who are not familiar with the history of the Rocking R, it has gone thorough some renovations and seen some tough times. On March 5th, 2009 a massive gas explosion completely destroyed the R-Bar and surrounding buildings, and much of the historic city block. Tragically one young woman lost her life in the early morning disaster. The scenes out of Bozeman that day were surreal. Freezing cold temperatures, ice, steam, smoke and fire – and a chunk of downtown destroyed.

Since the accident the affected section of Main Street Bozeman has been blocked off – that is how I last saw it after being back for Homecoming last year. But a few months ago, on July 26th, the R-Bar reopened. On the drive through town, it was good to see the new development rise from the rubble. The R-Bar is back. The restaurant Boodles, which was also destroyed, has been replaced by Santé Fe Reds, which moved into downtown from its old location on North 7th Ave. (Did they trade places? I think the R-Bar moved over and Reds is where it was.) The other interesting thing is that it is difficult to distinguish one establishment from the other. They look similar from the front, and Rocking R branded sandstone adorns each side of both establishments. They are not linked in any way. I’m not sure how the R-Bar pulled off that marketing feat.

The Real "Old R-Bar"

Now for some additional history. Despite what current MSU students call it, the R-Bar before the explosion was not the “old” R-Bar. To me the old Rocking R was the lovable dive that existed before the first renovation in 1998. The “real” old R-Bar smelled like a stale-beer soaked men’s locker room. After the 1998 renovation, it reopened and was considered too nice by most regulars. They served calamari for appetizers, and the bathrooms actually had real plumbing. Where had all the good times gone?

Well, the “new/new” R-Bar is even nicer yet. From a beer selection standpoint, things have changed since I was in college. The Rocking R now serves classics from around the globe (9am on Homecoming morning I always start off with a Guinness), as well as wonderful Montana specialties from breweries such as Kettle House (Cold Smoke Scotch Ale), Lone Peak (Nordic Blonde) and Yellowstone Valley Brewing (Huckle Weizen). Of course you can still order a draft Schlitz too. The old/old R-Bar was much more famous for quarter beers and pitchers of Kamikazes than craft beer… which they did not serve. So the new beer selection is one big plus. And now the front of the Rocking R opens up to the sidewalk. Main Street Bozeman has changed over the years. It now has a very electric feel like Lodo in Denver or the Gaslamp district in San Diego. (Smaller and Montana-style of course.) The street is packed, and people drinking at The R are now part of it. And it is difficult on Homecoming Weekend to have a beer out on the sidewalk and not know every third person that walks by. It is a very nice addition having the bar open out on to the street. If you have not been back to visit the new Rocking R, try to get there before the weather turns so you can enjoy a drink outside.

Remember the Jukebox?

For those that still long for R-Bar 1.0, I’ve listed some songs from the famous jukebox. (Thanks Countryman!) For those that spent any time there, this list should bring back memories of playing pool and bar fights.

Hank Williams Jr. – A Country Boy Can Survive
George Strait – Amarillo By Morning
Charlie Daniels Band – Devil Went Down to Georgia
Jimmy Buffett – Why Don’t We Get Drunk and Screw
Steve Miller Band – Jungle Love
Golden Earring – Radar Love
The Who – Squeeze Box
Rolling Stones – Gimme Shelter
Sawyer Brown – Race Is On
Marty Robbins – El Paso
Johnny Cash – Ring of Fire
Garth Brooks – Friends in Low Places
Jimmy Buffett – Come Monday
Meatloaf – Paradise by the Dashboard Lights
Pearl Jam – Alive
Social Distortion – Ball and Chain
Sweet – Fox On The Run
Golden Earring – Twilight Zone
Steppenwolf – Magic Carpet Ride
Shelly West – Jose Cuervo
Johnny Cash – I Walk The Line
Marshall Tucker Band – Heard It In A Love Song
Lynard Skynyrd – Free Bird
The Doors – Whiskey Bar
Billy Idol – Prodigal Bules
Nazareth – Hair Of The Dog
Warrant – Cherry Pie
Danzig – Mother
Pearl Jam – Even Flow
Garth Brooks – Rodeo
Nitty Gritty Dirt Band – Fishing In The Dark
Toby Keith – Should’ve Been A Cowboy

Where there any others? I don’t think so…