A Brewing Revolution in Germany!

A brewing revolution in Germany you ask?  How could one of the world's greatest brewing countries, already rich with tradition, have a revolution?

Well, this very topic came up in a recent article I read in the weekly German news magazine "Stern."

"Ein Bier?  Nein: Dutzende!

Kleine Hausbrauereien zeigen, wie lecker Bier schmechen kann - in Berlin gibt es besonders viele davon."

A beer?  No, dozens! 


Small 'Hausbrauereien' show how delicious beer can taste - in Berlin there are particularly a lot of these.

The article interviews and reports on a handful of the dozen or so new breweries that have cropped up in Berlin recently.  The term "Hausbrauerei" is a bit of a misnomer.  These are not really "home breweries," though some are located in residential areas and quite quaint.  Rather the term probably closest compares to our term "Brew Pub." The term implies new, small, and craft.  I'm not sure if I'd go as far as to use the word "artisan."  I've still never met a German brewer that would consider himself an artisan.  That distinction can be left to the Belgians.

Berlin's most common drink is Pils beer, and that general region is probably best known for Berliner Weiße and Schwarzbier, but read below for what the newcomers are serving up.

US Influence

These new breweries are a bit unconventional by German standards.  Some of the Hausbrauereien have their roots in homebrewing.  Making beer at home is a hobby that is not as popular in Germany as here.  Remember, our homebrewing past grew out of necessity.  There has never been a shortage of excellent beer in Germany - hence the lack of necessity.  Most German brewers are professionally schooled and come from traditional brewing families; it is not as common to rise out of the homebrewing ranks.

The ever-present bug of homebrewing creativity shows up in these boutique breweries.  Eschenbräu is a Hausbrauerei in the center of Berlin.  Brewer Martin Eschenbrenner brags of using "USA Cascade Hopfen" in his "PankeGold."  What?  Grapefruity "C-hops" imported into the biggest hop producing country in the world?  Germans are not used to non-noble hops.  I'm sure it catches a few patrons off guard.

Michael Schwab of Brewbaker Hausbrauerei, a few kilometers to the south of Eschenbräu, takes creativity even further.  He circumvents the famous Rheinheitsgebot with his "Pumpkin Lager," as well as "Fritz," a beer brewed with potato starch to honor the 300th birthday of the beloved Prussian King Frederick The Great.  (Known as the leader that introduced potatoes to the Germanic people.)

Rheinheitsgebot

Germans are fiercely proud of their beer purity law - the Rheinheitsgebot.  Most German beer bottles, especially those from Bavaria where the order originated, adorn their labels with "Gebraut nach dem deutschen/bayerischen Rheinheitsgebot."  Since 1516, the world's first food quality law has guided beer production in this land.

But there is a debate in the beer-lover community.  Is the Rheinheitsgebot a good thing or a bad thing?  The Germans are undoubtedly the world leaders in brewing science and beer quality.  Germans are engineers that brew, using the famous ordinance as their blueprint.  But many argue it inhibits the brewer's creativity and flexibility.  Germans can't even artificially carbonate their beers let alone use orange peel and coriander (Wit comes from Belgium), or even use roasted barley (which is not malted).

So how do these creative, new Hausbrauereien get around the Rheinheitsgebot and use ingredients such as pumpkin and potato starch?  The don't call their product beer.  Guinness contains a high percentage of roasted (unmalted) barley in its grain bill - definitely verboten.  Eschenbräu brews a similar version of this beer, but they call it "Schwarze Molle." This means "black Molle" - Molle is a colloquial term in Berlin for a glass of beer.

Where Else?

Berlin is a very international and cosmopolitan city, so it is well suited for this new trend.  But the proliferation of Hausbrauereien is not limited to the German capital.  There are other new breweries like this popping up across the land, and also examples in neighboring countries.

Huus-Braui in Roggwil Switzerland

While visiting Switzerland in the fall of 2009, our good friend from St. Gallen took Joycelyn and I to the "Huus-Braui" in the hamlet of Roggwil near the banks of Lake Constance.  I take Huus-Braui to be the rough Swiss German equivalent of Hausbrauerei.  This was a quaint little brewery with the main bar and brew house located in the cellar of an old building.  There was a modestly sized beer garden outside in the front.  Co-owner Marianne Hasler gave us a interesting private tour of their modern brewing facility, and then served up several very tasty beers including their Hell, Gold and Dunkel.

What about Bavaria?  To be honest, I have not seen this trend spread to Bayern, nor do I expect it to.  First of all, Bavaria is already flush with breweries.  German has 16 states (Länder), but half of its 1300 breweries are in the single state of Bavaria.  There is little room for more, and Bavarians are typically quite happy with their local breweries.

Also, Bavaria is not what I would call of progressive or cosmopolitan.  Tradition reigns there.  Nor are they overly concerned about trends in other parts of Germany.  They are very independent people, still calling themselves Freistaat Bayern.  (the free state of Bavaria)  Nor do they particularly care about Berlin, or the north in general.  They occasionally label their counterparts up there pagan Prussians.  (technically they are Protestants)  Munich is their capital, not Berlin.  Bavarians pay little attention to what is going on north of the "Weißwurst equator."

Forsthaus Templin between Potsdam and Caputh

Bavaria does have real 'Hausbrauereien' - places where beer is brewed and dispensed directly from people's homes.  This is called "Zoigl."  These home breweries are different than the young breweries discussed in this article.  The Zoigl house brewing right dates back to the early 1400s.  For more detail about Zoiglbier - see my entry from October of 2012:  http://www.2009bdoty.com/2010/10/zoiglbier.html

Final Thoughts

When I visit Germany I love the tradition that comes with each glass of beer.  With that said, the proliferation of these less traditional Hausbrauereien appears to be a very positive movement.  A little creativity never hurts.  And despite the US hops and unconventional ingredients, most of these breweries still serve German staples.  Pils, Weizen, Dunkles, etc.

In 2007 Joycelyn and I visited the former East Germany, and we did visit and tour a new brewery called Forsthaus Templin.  Forsthaus is just south west of Berlin between Potsdam and Caputh.  I'm not exactly sure if this brewery considers itself a Hausbrauerei, but at a minimum there were similarities.  We enjoyed some excellent beers there with our host Sabine and her family.

And what about the Rheinheitsgebot debate?  Is the Rheinheitsgebot good or bad?  I concede, it does limit the flexibility of the brewer.  With that said, there is still a diverse selection of German-style beers.  In the end, I'll argue that you can't argue with success.  This order is the foundation for a brewing culture that the rest of the world is indebted to.  If I had to make a list of the best breweries and beers in the world, the top would be heavily loaded with Rheinheitsgebot entries.  As people in the US argue this point, I believe the Germans have earned the right to simply say, "scoreboard."

Here is a list of some of the Hausbrauereien in Berlin.  Drop me a note if you get a chance to visit any of these.  The next time I'm in Berlin many of these will be on my list.

Brewbaker (http://brewbaker.de/)
Eschenbräu (http://eschenbraeu.de/)
Rollberger (http://rollberger.de/)
Brauhaus Lemke (http://www.brauhaus-lemke.com/)
Brauhaus Mitte (http://brauhaus-mitte.de)
Brauhaus Spandau (http://brauhaus-spandau.de/)
Brauhaus Südstern (http://brauhaus-suedstern.de/) Hausbrauereien
Georgbräu (http://georgbraeu.de/)
Hops & Barley (http://hopsandbarley-berlin.de/)
Schalander Hausbrauerei (http://hausbrauerei-berlin.de/)

Überbrew - Montana's Newest Brewery

2305 Montana Avenue

Billings, MT  59101

http://www.facebook.com/UberbrewMT?filter=2

Today Montana's newest brewery, Überbrew, opens for business.  Located downtown it joins four other breweries (Montana Brewing Company, Carter's, Yellowstone Brewing, and Angry Hanks) as well as the Railyard Ale House (full disclosure - owned and operated by my parents and nephew) in Billing's "Brewing District."  On a recent trip back to the Fatherland I was lucky enough to meet brewer Andy and owners Jason Shroyer and Mark Hastings to get a pre-opening tour of their pride and joy.

Historic Location

The old brick building was once the bottling facility for the long-since-defunct Billings Brewing Company, which opened around 1900.   During Überbrew's construction process they uncovered feet of crushed glass under the floor, and found some nearly intact prohibition era bottles from the old brewery.  Überbrew's main room appears to be an old alley that, in the distant past, was roofed over to create a new dwelling.  The red brick walls are those of the neighboring buildings, and old painted timber rafters are exposed creating a unique atmosphere.  Five skylights allow in natural light during those long Montana summer days.  

Mark and Jason used reclaimed barn lumber on the interior adding to the rustic ambiance.  Their 40' long bar is also a thing of beauty made from stained and polished concrete. The mounted head of a bull elk overlooks the spacious tasting room.  Maybe tasting room is not the proper term.  One of Überbrew's hooks is that they have a full kitchen.  They not only intend to serve food, but their goal is to highlight their cuisine and promote beer-food pairings.  This is bit unique, since most of Montana's taprooms do not have kitchens.

The Brewery

I was extremely impressed with Überbrew's brewhouse and serving cooler.  Their systems and lines were meticulously planned and laid out.  They are blessed with plenty of room - there is no clutter, and their working facility is kept very tidy.  Andy provided me with an overview of their modern 10 bbl brewing system.  For fermentation they have three 10 bbl plus two 20 bbl unitanks.  That translates into some very long brewing days to complete two full batches for the 20 bbl cylindrical conical fermenters.  That also means they'll need a lot of thirst customers to keep up with the supply.  They have the capability to produce 18,000 barrels (half million gallons) per year.  My prediction is that the supply and demand will work out fine.

In their malt storage and milling room I noticed stacks of German Weyermann and British Fawcett malt bags.  It is nice to see a brewery using the finest grains to pair with that premium Yellowstone River water.  I was not allowed to sample any of their beers, but I was told for the opening they would be serving an Imperial Hefeweizen, an American Hefeweizen, an Amber, an IPA, as well as an English Summer Ale.  Behind the long bar they have two separate banks of twelve taps - one for serving pints and another for growlers to go.  So expect a wide selection of beers on tap as Überbrew ramps up production.

They are currently providing their spent grains to a local goat farmer.  The plan is to trade feed for artisan goat cheese to serve and pair with Überbrew's beers.  Sounds like a good plan to me!

Their Philosophy

I sat down with owner and brewer Mark Hastings to discuss their name and philosophy.  Über means "above" in German and has superlative connotations in the English language.  A perfect fit for some German-inspired American brewers.   "Überbrew... superlative beer is what it means to me," Mark stated.  "Our philosophy is to provide the best of everything we do.  Excellent and knowledgeable service, great food, the best beer, etc.  We also are excited about promoting beer-food pairings and educating our customers about how fine beer and different dishes go together.  Much like wine."  And this doctrine of quality spills over to every aspect of the facility.  From the beautiful modern/rustic tasting room to the meticulously laid out brewing facility.

Montana is on a roll...

Montana is already in the top tier of states when it comes to breweries per capita.  Überbrew will be Billing's fifth brewery, and there are rumors that two more are planned - these would be located in the West end of the town.  Billings barely has 100,000 inhabitants, but they have proven to be quite thirsty.  If you live in the area, head on down and try out Montana's newest brewery.  It is also a short walk to the other breweries downtown, and the Railyard is just down the street.  If you don't live in the area, next time you plan a trip think of Montana.  For a beer lover it will not disappoint.

Icelandic Beer

I’ve been very lucky over the past seven years to have met, and become good friends with, an Icelander named Bergsteinn – better known as Beggi.  (His full name will not be used in this post to protect guilty.)  Beggi periodically returns to his Fatherland, and knowing I am a connoisseur, he always brings me back a couple bottles of their local beer to sample – each unique from the others before.  Upon receiving his last delivery, I felt a calling to write a blog about Iceland’s brewing industry.  Not necessarily because Iceland is a beer Mecca, but it does produce some excellent products, and it is a case study in a booming, global craft-beer economy.

First Some History

Iceland was settled over 1100 years ago by Norse Vikings who, at the time, sailed the North Atlantic seas raping and pillaging.  (Beggi prefers the term “raiding and trading…”)  After discovering this remote, uninhabited island near the Arctic Circle, for some reason, they decided to set up camp.  In the years since it was settled the country has had very little immigration.  The Icelandic bloodline pristine.  Their language is also very pure and ancient.  While modern Norwegian has been influence by other northern European languages over the centuries, Iceland’s is that of the original Vikings.  Icelanders are known to be able to read Medieval texts.  I speak German and have dabbled in Norwegian, and though I can read some, aside from skaal, it is almost impossible to discern a single word of spoken Icelandic.  It is known as one of the world’s most difficult languages to learn.

Over the centuries Iceland has at times fallen under the Norwegian and Danish crowns, albeit with varying degrees of autonomy.  World War II and the German occupation of Denmark brought change to the country’s rule, and in 1944 Icelanders voted to become a sovereign republic.  Though currently independent, and despite technically being closer to North America (Greenland) than Europe, Iceland has maintained close ties to Europe, especially Scandinavia, and foremost with Denmark. 

Prohibition

Most of us think of Prohibition in the context of the United States, but there were a number of other lands that also tried this flawed experiment.  Starting in 1907 countries such as the Faroe Islands, Russia, Norway, Hungary, Finland and Iceland all suffered through periods of Prohibition.  Iceland’s Prohibition started in 1915.  The ban on spirits and wine was lifted in 1935.  It is hard to believe, but beer remained prohibited until March 1^st, 1989!  March 1^st is now celebrated as “Beer Day” on the island.

 

In hindsight it is obvious to say that past prohibition experiments have been complete failures, but knowing a handful of Icelanders now, I cannot imagine any government wanting to push their rain-soaked, winter-sunlight-deprived population toward hard liquors like Vodka and Brennivín instead of letting them drink low alcohol, safe and nutritious beer. 

Brewing Background

Iceland is better known for chess, puffin hunting and unpronounceable volcanoes than beer, but it should be proud of its local breweries.  The island is approximately the size of Kentucky, and with only 313,000 people, it would be the smallest state in the US by population.  With that said, Iceland boasts eight breweries.  That doesn’t sound terribly high, but keep in mind that number would put it in a per capita rank with the top tier US states like Vermont, Oregon, Montana, and Colorado.  And to think that when I was in college at MSU, brewing in Iceland was not even legal!  No brewing tradition, no Charlie Papazian, nothing…  Also, Iceland rests squarely in the spirit belt, well north of the beer belt.  Its climate does not lend itself to raising the ingredients needed in beer.  So to see a new and growing beer industry there is exciting.

Their craft brewing movement somewhat reminds me of the US – a hip new industry with a number of young breweries.  Unlike Iceland, the US does have a long brewing tradition, but keep in mind; all but a handful of the 2000 breweries in this country today did not exist in 1980. 

Beer Evolution

In the short amount of time I’ve been privileged to sample Iceland’s beers, I’ve noticed a bold maturation in their offerings.  Initially the beers I sampled were light or amber lagers – beers I would put squarely in the Euro Lager category.  Comparisons to the Danish brewer Carlsberg comes to mind.  (Remember the Denmark connection earlier…)  They were excellent beers for refreshment and the “mass” market, but not overly creative.  But times have changed and Iceland’s beers have evolved.  And it makes sense.  The cool climate near the Arctic Circle lends itself to more robust Ales.  (“Never drink a beer from a country that does not have a real winter.”)  The beers I’ve sampled lately are much more creative: a hoppy Pale Ale, a Smoked Imperial Stout, two Wit beers, even an Angelica Spiced Ale.  And an interesting thing to note, though the styles being brewed there have European heritage, they appear to be inspired by American breweries.  For example, the Wit beers I sampled are what I would categorize as “American Wit,” not really an interpretation of the Belgian original.  So the American craft movement we all know and love is spreading to other countries.

Breweries and Beers

Below is a sampling of some of the beers I’ve had the chance to sample:

Ölvisholt Brugghús (http://www.brugghus.is/english/)

-       Mori: Pours hazy amber with a light tan, creamy head.  The nose boasts fresh hops and a dry, grainy maltiness.  It tastes very Maris-Otter-esque with a blend of earthy and citrusy hops.  In the finish hops eventually overtake the malt.  This is a wonderful beer – fitting nicely in the Pale Ale or ESB category.  This is the most aggressively hopped Icelandic beer I’ve tried to date.

-       Lava:  (Smoked Imperial Stout) This beer pours pitch black and is capped with a light brown head.  Its aroma is of sweet beechwood smoke.  (possibly Weyermann Rauchmalz)  The flavor is dominated by roasted malts and smoke – all the time maintaining a smooth texture.  For a style of beer that can get out of hand, Lava is very balanced.  It finishes with lingering smoked malt.  This is a nice “extreme” beer from Iceland.

Bruggsmiðjan

-       Stinnings Kaldi:  (med Islenskri Hvönn –> with Icelandic angelica)  This hazy copper beer has a long lasting head and comes with a subtle lactic acid aroma.  Its flavor is very light with floral notes and a mild tartness.  Lactic dryness closes this beer out.  Stinnings Kaldi was a very surprising beer, floral and very light in flavor with a sour note – similar to some Belgian Farmhouse Ales I’ve sampled.

Vífilfell

-       Víking Gylltur: (Premium Lager / Pils)  Not a lot to comment on here.  This is a typical European-style pale lager.  I found it very enjoyable.  I think sheep do most of the work over there, but if Icelanders had lawn mowers, this is the beer they’d drink after doing that.

Einstök Ölgerđ (http://www.einstokbeer.com/)

-       Icelandic White Ale: Einstök’s Wit is a cloudy, pale yellow beer with a thin head and lot of chunks in suspension after pouring.  (Healthy vitamin B!)  Its nose offers up a musty combination of citrus and coriander.  The wheat in this beer is very present along with a slight tang.  The finish is surprisingly clean with a faint bit of orange.  It is an excellent example of a Wit Beer.

There are several other Icelandic beers I’ve tried, but did not take notes on: Thule, Kaldi Lager, Egill’s Christmas beer, Vífilfell’s Christmas beer, and Freyja to name a few.   Not every beer needs to be evaluated, some can simply be enjoyed without a pen and my notes!

Below is a list of the four other Icelandic breweries not mentioned above:

Brewery Reykjavíkur

Egill Skallagrímsson Brewery

Gæðingur Brugghús (http://www.gaedingur-ol.is/)

Víking Ölgerđ Akureyri (http://www.olgerd.is/english.html#forsida)

It is always a pleasure to try new beers – especially rare ones.  And when drinking a Freyja (Ölvisholt Brugghús) I can feel confidant I’m the only one within thousands of miles enjoying that beer.  I would like to give a big thanks to “the mayor of Beggivik” as well as his family for braving customs and supplying me with some excellent new beers from an isolated part of the Atlantic.  And much better than the rotten shark and Brennivín I was conned into comsuming last weekend up snowcave camping!

Arvada Beer Company

5600 Olde Wadsworth Blvd

Arvada, CO  80002

303-467-2337

http://arvadabeer.com

I’ve lived in Golden just west of the city of Arvada for 12 years.  In that relatively short amount of time, I’ve witnessed a miraculous reincarnation of the original nineteenth century heart of the town.  Just west of Wadsworth on the north side of the tacks, Olde Town Arvada has sprung up from the empty buildings on the hill around the historic water tower – and it has turned into a great destination for area residents. 

Denver’s Fast Tracks rail system has been one of the driving forces behind the recent development.  The “Gold Line” connecting Denver and Golden is scheduled to open in 2016, and one of the few stops on this stretch is right across the street from the Grandview restaurant.  Ever since the transit plans were solidified, more and more establishments have been popping up.  And in Colorado it is hard for a new neighborhood to spring up without a local brewery – so last year the Arvada Beer Company stepped in to fill the void.  

The Brewery and spacious tasting area is located on the corner of Olde Wadsworth and Grandview Avenue.  The atmosphere is simple and suites their business well.  Their location is perfect.  They opened their doors last October, but the quality of their beer belies the fact that this brewery is barely out of its diapers.  Arvada Beer not only serves as the local tasting room, it is also an integral part of the emerging community.

A Community Working Together

Success can be difficult for any start-up business, and Olde Town Arvada has several that have sprung up in the past couple of years.  To help each other out, all of the businesses in that area are cooperating to make things work. 

The Arvada Beer Company does not have a kitchen, but they want to give their patrons as many excuses as possible to hang out and drink more of their beer.  So they have partnered with local restaurants to help them out.  Each table has a menu card with contact information for seven different eateries that will deliver to the table.  The food choices range from pizza to hotdogs to cheese steaks to Indian/Nepalese/Tibetan cuisine.  The establishment around the corner, Mannequin Frites, also delivers.  (Their name is a word play on Brussels’ mischievous mascot... the Mannequin Pis)  They specialize in Belgian-style fries served with a dollop of your choice of 20 different sauces.  They also offer a terrific sampling of famous Belgian beers such as Hoegaarden, Duvel, De Koninck, Kasteel Rouge, Orval, and various Lambics.

Next door to the brewery is great little ice cream and candy shop called Scrumptious.  Their sorbet is made with the brewery's Watertower Wheat beer – perfect for warm springs days, and their beer cheese soup is made with Arvada Beer’s 59er Schwarzbier.  So through their partnership with the brewery next door, they have beer lovers covered whether they need a hot or cold to snack while wandering Olde Town.  It really is a community where everyone appears to be helping each other out.

Favorite Beer

Arvada Beer Company brews a wide range of true-to-style beers.  I’ve enjoyed their Olde Town Brown, Ralston Golden Ale, Goldline IPA, Coffee Porter and Watertower Wheat, but my favorite draft is their Schwarzbier called 59er.  It is an excellent interpretation of the Northeastern German specialty.  It pours almost opaque and has a fresh, clean aroma.  The rich flavor is a perfect balance between dark malts and a smooth lager.  There is no perceived roast flavor.  Nothing dominates, which is the way a Schwarzbier should be.  It finishes smooth & clean and fades out with pleasant malt flavors.  Overall it is well balanced and a nice example of the beer that is more difficult to make than most think.

Worth Noting

The Arvada Beer Company does not yet distribute to other establishments.  According to my server, Josh, they are “taking things slow to make sure and do it right.”  As they feel more comfortable with their production they plan to expand their distribution.  In the mean time, patrons can pop in to pick up growlers, or even grab a cornie if they have a keg-a-rator, or just need a small keg for a party.   Tours can be arranged by request.   Stop by and check them out – I think you’ll be pleased.