Saturday, December 15, 2012
2013 Beerdrinker of the Year Search
You could be the next Beerdrinker of the Year!
You could be the next Beerdrinker of the Year. If you are reading this blog you are a beer lover – and that is the first step! To apply you need to submit a Beer Resume. This document must include your beer philosophy, details on your passion for beer, and your 2012 beer experiences. It should “detail the entrant’s understanding of beer and its history and importance to civilization, and the entrant’s efforts to educate others to the joys of great beer.”
And all of this cannot exceed three 8.5 x 11″ pages in 12-point font. Your beer resume needs to be emailed into the Wynkoop no later than December 31st. There are a few other rules, so make sure and check out the official Beerdrinker of the Year web site for all of the details. (http://wynkoop.com/beer-blog/item/157-2013-beerdrinker-of-the-year-search-is-underway)
As an example, and to view the resume that got me into the finals, check out my 2009 resume. Each year, all of the beer resumes received by the Wynkoop are reviewed and thinned down to the top 10, at which point they are sent out to a panel of experts around the country to select the three finalists. Those lucky three will be flown to Denver for the finals on February 23th, 2013, at which time seven wigged & robed judges will ultimately select the winner.
The winner will receive free beer for life at the Wynkoop, $250 at their local brewpub or beer bar, apparel, and their name will be engraved on the Beerdrinker of the Year trophy at the Wynkoop Brewery.
A good resume will take some work, so hopefully you’ve already started, or are touching up a previous year’s application. (I submitted a resume in 1997 and 2005 before my 2009 resume got me to the finals.) I encourage all of you to take a shot at the ultimate beer accolade!
Westvleteren XII
I'm sure you all heard the news this week. The Trappist Abbey of Saint Sixtus of Westvleteren needs a new roof, in addition to some other repairs, so the reclusive and silent order decided to sell a limited number of six-packs of their famous Westvleteren XII to the US market. This is a temporary promotion, and don't expect it to come back. This order of monks is not interested in making money, which they could obviously make a lot of if they wished. Needless to say they are not capitalists. Typically their beer is only available, on a very limited basis, sold directly from the monastery.
The six-packs are going for around $85, which is actually a deal. The four liquor stores in Colorado lucky enough to get 35 six packs of the limited distribution all sold out in minutes.
Did I get one? No, I did not. But I've had Westvleteren XII before in 2008 during a trip to Sweden. Our B&B was located in the Soedermalm district of Stockholm. Near our flat was a bar and restaurant called Akkurat. If you ever visit Stockholm, a visit to Akkurat is a must. Upon entering the bar and bellying-up, the tender gave me a small-phone-book-sized list of their unique bottled and tap beers. There were specialties from Sweden, Germany, Belgium, etc. After a few beers and some discussion, the bartender said, "you sound like you know a thing or two about beer." He took away the beer menu I had and replaced it with a large-phone-book-sized list of their beer.
I've never seen anything like this before. For example, you could not only order Chimay Red, White, or Blue - you could also pick the vintage. A 2002 Red, or 1998 White, for example. They had quite a cellar collection.
Then I saw Westvleteren XII. I pointed and asked, "You don't really have this?" I've been to Belgium numerous times, and never seen that beer for sale. The bartender replied, "Of course we do." I don't know how they got it (it is not supposed to be resold), but they did. I ordered one. To this day it is the most expensive single beer I've purchased in my life. Around $60 for one 1/3 liter bottle.
Westvleteren bottles have no label. All of the information required by the EU to sell an alcoholic beverage is printed on the colored cap - the color being the primary way to differentiate between their three offerings. The bartender used a Swedish Crown coin over the cap and carefully opened the beer. It was served in the proper glass, and he presented me with the pristine bottle cap to boot. The rest is history. And yes, it was worth the hype.
Saturday, November 24, 2012
Brettanomyces and Anchorage Brewing Company
Over the past few years the use of Brettanomyces and other non-traditional organisms during fermentation has become all the rage. At this year's Great American Beer Festival I pleasantly experienced few lines - except those lines for the funky and sour beers. They seem to be a magnet for GABF-goers. In this post I will provide some basic background information about "Brett" in beer and use the Anchorage Brewing Company as a vehicle for this discussion.
Anchorage Brewing Company
This blog entry was inspired by a 750ml bottle of Anchorage Brewing Company's Galaxy White IPA. Galaxy White transported me back to last summer's trip to Alaska. Fellow Beerdrinker of the Year, Bill Howell, tipped me off to Anchorage Brewing before our visit. There are a couple of attributes that make this brewery quite unique.
This relatively new brewery is run by former Midnight Sun head brewer Gabe Fletcher. The small "brewery" is actually in the basement of yet another brewery - the Sleeping Lady. Gabe does not have his own Sudhaus, rather he rents time on Sleeping Lady's upstairs. Technically this is not contract brewing. Gabe does all of the work himself, with his ingredients, just on someone else's equipment. This lets him focus on what really makes his beers unique - experimenting with wild fermentation and different woods. Chardonnay barrels, Cabernet, Pinot Noir, etc. Most of his beers are triple fermented. Primary fermentation is carried out in stainless steel, which is followed by a long secondary in French oak dosed with Brettanomyces, and a final fermentation takes place to carbonate the bottle - usually 750ml bombers. All of his beers are fermented at least in part by Brett.
Galaxy White IPA
What is a "White IPA" you ask? Well, the style has not been defined. Not until now anyway. Galaxy is a marriage of the Belgian Wit (white) style, which is a spiced wheat beer, and an IPA, which is a higher-gravity aggressively hopped beer. As you can imagine the result is quite diverse. In the production of this beer Gabe uses Indian coriander, black peppercorns, Galaxy hops from Australia (hence the name), fresh kumquats from Asia, and ferments the concoction with a Belgian Wit yeast. The beer is further aged in Brett inoculated French oak.
Galaxy pours a pale hazy yellow capped by a brilliant, fluffy white head. The aroma is heavy on citrus from the single hop used. Notes of lemon and grapefruit are present. Coriander may also be contributing to a hint of orange. The nose may be subtle, but the flavor is not. In true IPA fashion, there is plenty of citrus and bitterness coupled with a slight sourness. There is a very characteristic pineapple twang that comes from the Brettanomyces. The finish is long with the peppercorns showing up at the very end. Overall Galaxy White IPA is a very complex and impressive beer.
Taking a gamble with Brett?
Gabe has basically built his brewery around Brett. This "bug" has become quite popular as of late, and all of Anchorage Brewing's beers are at least partially fermented with it. So what is all the fuss about this microorganism? Why are some beer lovers obsessed with it? And exactly what is it?
Brettanomyces
Brettanomyces was discovered in the early 1900s by the Carlsberg brewery in Denmark while investigating spoilage in English Ales. Many people do not realize this, but Brett is a form of yeast. With that said it is a bit different than common/traditional brewing yeasts. Brettanomyces is a non-spore forming genus of yeast, where as Saccharomyces cerevisiae reproduces via budding. (By the way, Saccharo-myces is derived from the Greek "sugar fungus," and Brettano-myces from Greek meaning "British fungus.") The different reproductive cycle influences the growth of Brettanomyces, which is much slower than typical brewer's yeasts. Brewers who work with Brett know this well. Brett character develops over time during long fermentation schedules. Like ordinary yeast Brettanomyces will produce esters and phenols. However, unlike ordinary yeast it is a lactic and acetic acid producer.
Brettanomyces occurs naturally living on the skins of fruit. Before the single cell Saccharomyces strains were isolated and understood, most beers brewed probably had some form of Brett character to them. Spread mechanically during harvest, the wind, via insects, or other means, Brett would find its way into fermenting worts. The open and spontaneous fermentation of Belgian Lambic beers is one example of "contamination" where nature has taken its course.
Over the years this wild yeast has played a role in both the brewing and wine making industries, which the latter generally considers a spoiling organism and avoids like the plague. Most brewers outside of Belgium typically did also, though now its cult following is leading to a resurgence.
The Super Yeast
Brettanomyces is a super-attenuating form of yeast. If left alone in the proper conditions long enough, Brett beers can become quite dry. One good example is the world-class Belgian Trappist beer Orval. It is fermented traditionally, but dosed with Brettanomyces for bottle conditioning. Especially if aged at cellar temperature for a year or more, Orval can become very dry and lack body. (Why many people seek it out.)
Brett has the ability to ferment higher molecular weight sugars and even Dextrins that Saccharomyces are not able to process. Typical yeast feeds on mono and disaccharides with the ability to ferment some trisaccharides. (Lager yeast being the most capable - and are generally a bit more attenuative than ale yeast.) Dextrins, four or more glucose molecules, are not fermentable by normal yeast. These Dextrines add body to beer. Brett slowly works away at these longer chained molecules. This explains the dryness of Orval.
Another distinguishing factor of Brettanomyces is that it produces a thick, snot-like pellicle on the top of the fermenting beer. Belgian brewers sometime talk about their beer "getting sick." This is a result of the Brett fermentation. Oak barrels, which cannot be sanitized, are ideal for harboring Brett. So are other porous and difficult to clean surfaces. Belgian Lambic brewers do not disturb the brewery's environment leaving their delicate balance alone. But as an experimenting home brewer, work with caution to ensure there is no cross contamination or Brett contamination in general. Once Brett gets a foothold in a brewery, it can be almost impossible to eradicate.
Flavor Profile
Brettanomyces is not one specific microorganism. Just like yeast there are many different strains of Brett. Many Belgian breweries speak of "house" strains, similar to how old breweries have house strains of yeast. Major yeast suppliers such as Wyeast and White Labs supply different cultures of Brettanomyces as well as some blends that contain Brett as well as bacteria specific to wild beer fermentations such as Flanders Red and Lambics. The suppliers offer good flavor profiles for their strains, though environmental factors can greatly influence the resulting characteristics of the beer, so results may very. But the descriptions provide a good general guideline of what to expect.
The wild flavors produced by Brett vary greatly depending on the strains, but here are some of the most common descriptors: sweaty horse blanket ("horsy"), pie cherry, pineapple, mouse urine ("mousy"), smoky, barnyard, antiseptic, cheese... the list goes on. I can detect Brett pretty well, but often have a difficult time articulating the flavor and aroma. Though pie cherry and pineapple are two that really jump out at me in most Brett inoculated beers.
Terrior
Above I mention Lambic breweries and the physical buildings being infected. Years ago in Belgium I toured the Cantillion Lambic brewery. Upon entering the barn-like structure housing the brewery the tangy wild smell was unmistakable. And Cantillion's Gueuze tasted exactly like the building smelled. When Michael Jackson spoke of terrior, this is what he was talking about. The spontaneous fermentation that takes place in that building cannot be reproduced anywhere else in the world.
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| Lambic Fermenting at Cantillion |
Brett Beer Styles
Here is a list of beers typically associated with a Brettanomyces fermentation. Many of the beer styles below include a cocktail of "bugs," such as acid producing bacteria, in addition to Brett. Although there are exceptions of 100% Brettanomyces fermented beers, standard ale yeast (Saccharomyces cerevisiae) typically processes a majority of the fermentables even in wild beers. The other microorganisms add character, and can be overwhelming if left unchecked.
If you are not already a Brett-lover, seek out some of these beers and let me know what you think of this super attenuating, acid producing, wild yeast.
- Lambic and its sub-styles Gueuze, Fruit Lambic (Kreik, Framboise, etc.), Faro and Mars
- Flanders Red Ales
- Some Farmhouse Ales
- Some Saisons
- Sour Belgian Ales
- Some English Old Ales
- Anchorage Brewing Company's offerings
- Numerous American "funky" beers cropping up lately
Post Publishing Note
I would like to make a clarification about Anchorage Brewing Company's fermentation regiment. This update comes from fellow Beerdrinker of the Year and Alaska beer expert Bill Howell.
Gabe is now doing his primary fermentations in wooden foudres, rather than stainless. When he started, he was using stainless for the primary, then racking to barrels, but now it's wood all the way. I believe Galaxy doesn't get a secondary treatment; it's fermented in wooden foudres, then bottled with Brett. His other beers go in the barrels for a secondary, but not Galaxy.
- Bill Howell
Note that a foudre is a French term for a large barrel. Gabe's are massive French Oak vats that hold around 600 gallons. Thanks for the comment and update Bill!
Thursday, September 27, 2012
Mistakes Beer Drinkers Make
One of my most popular blog posts was a list that I published last September - 30 things to add to your to-do list. So this year I though I would take another shot at a list. This time I'm going to outline some of the "mistakes" that beer drinkers make when they partake. Though the term mistake may actually be a bit harsh. It is hard to make a major blunder while you're drinking beer, isn't it? Have I done any of the things on this list? Of course not! Well, actually, now that I think about it, yes, I've done them all.
Here is my list of some common beer drinker errors:
1) Drink a beer too cold. There is nothing wrong with an ice cold refreshing lawnmower beer now and then, but most craft beers are not intended to be consumed that way. Coldness numbs the taste buds and masks the complexities we are after in most beers. In central Europe most people drink their lagers chilled, but not ice cold. And most ales are intended to be consumed at a cellar temperature. (high 40s through the 50s) The warmer temperature really lets the yeast and hops shine. The Belgians are resolute about this, and as they say in England, "warm and flat is where it's at."
2) Order what everyone else is having. I hear this all the time, "I'll have a Fat Tire." People know New Belgium and are comfortable with their Amber Ale. And it is a great beer. But don't be afraid to take the time to read the beer menu and select something that may better suite your taste, or the weather, or what you are eating, etc. Don't be afraid to experiment or defy the crowd.
3) Like a beer because of a flaw. I'm guilty of this one. Back in high school we used to seek out Mooshead because it was skunked! What were we thinking? This happens especially to drinkers of light beers. Any flavor (any flavor) is construed as something new and good. My first homebrewed beer was not particularly good, but my Miller drinking buddies raved about it because it had flavor.
I often detect diacetyl (buttery flavor) in lagers for example. This is a flaw. Not to something be appreciated, rather something to be pointed out to the brewer.
4) Drink a beer out of the wrong glass. Not to be a snob here, but drinking glasses have evolved over the centuries to suite specific styles of beer. Their specific shape, style and even weight are designed to enhance aromas, accommodate highly or lightly carbonated beers, or simply be aesthetically pleasing. The tall vase shape of a Weißbier glass shows off the streaming bubbles of the highly carbonated wheat beer, and a snifter works well to corral the complex yeast and malt aromas of an English Barleywine. What about the sturdy Maß used to serve beers at Munich's Oktoberfest? They are designed not to break during the frequent Prosts! No Belgian pub would be caught serving a beer in the wrong glass. Even if they have 100 beers on tap or in the bottle, they will stock the proper glassware. Not that these beers would not taste good out of a simple tumbler, but the proper glass can enhance the experience. There is often a reason for tradition.
5) Under appreciate subtle beers. In this day of extreme, highly-hopped, barrel aged, 60 proof beers, I feel sometimes people get too obsessed with palate over-stimulation. There is nothing wrong with a good old-fashioned session Bitter, for example. These "light" beer possess lots of character. And lagers are seldom called "complex" (the yeast gets out of the way for the malt and hops) but some of the greatest beers in the world are clean, subtle, drinkable lagers like Helles, Pils, and Dunkles.
6) Be afraid to send a beer back. If what you've been served is not good (flawed), send it back. This is done more with wine than beer, but beer should be treated no differently. Unfortunately, with restaurants and bars carrying a greater selection of beers (which is a good thing) quality can suffer. It is difficult to keep 20, 30 or 50 beers in stock without having some that are past their prime. Not to mention the enormous task of maintaining all of the lines and faucets to dispense that many beers.
Years ago I was in a brewery in Boulder and ordered their cask offering. It had a strong flavor of formaldehyde. When I sent it back the bartender noted that I simply just must not be a fan of cask ale. I suggested that he take the beer off tap and notify the brewer.
7) Drink canned beer. I still have this phobia, and for some reason I still prefer bottles. With that said, more and more US craft breweries are canning their beer. Cans are lighter, cheaper to ship, don't break, and best of all they protect the beer from light. The Germans have been doing this for years. Over a decade ago on a trip to Germany I saw Paulaner Hefeweizen in 1/2 liter cans - I knew the tide had turned. Of course, bottle or can, it is still recommended to use the proper glass. (see #4 above)
8) "Dis" the big guys. I've never liked the derogatory term "fizzy yellow stuff." Mass produced beers are not to my taste, but many beer-lovers still enjoy High Life and PBR. Light lagers are by far the most difficult beers to brew, and the quality and consistency of the big brands has to be admired. So I don't drink those beers, but I don't talk down about them either. (Full disclosure: Up in Montana my father grows 2-row barley for Coors, and my cousin grows 6-row for Bud.)
9) Be afraid to pour a beer out. During wine tastings in the Napa Valley, connoisseurs frequently pour out wine after a sip. If you are sampling beers, don't be afraid to discard some if don't like it. In 2009 Joycelyn and I hosted a number of local beer legends in our basement - one of which was Charlie Papazian. I had several beers on tap, most of which he thoroughly enjoyed. But after a few sips of the cask Brown Ale I brewed specifically for the occasion, he poured it out. Right in front of me. And then he poured himself another glass of my Pilsner.
10) Neglect to take good notes when brewing. (OK, this one is specifically for homebrewers.) A brewer should always sample their raw ingredients during the brewing process and take good notes every step along the way. The combination of these two things can help he or she improve on their product after it is done, sampled and analyzed. If the beer is perfect, these notes help to recreate that special beer again. If not, they help in the refining process to zero in on that perfect home made beer.
I'm sure I've missed several "mistakes." Please let me know if you have any that should be added to this list.
Saturday, July 28, 2012
A Brewing Revolution in Germany!
A brewing revolution in Germany you ask? How could one of the world's greatest brewing countries, already rich with tradition, have a revolution?
Well, this very topic came up in a recent article I read in the weekly German news magazine "Stern."
"Ein Bier? Nein: Dutzende!
Kleine Hausbrauereien zeigen, wie lecker Bier schmechen kann - in Berlin gibt es besonders viele davon."
A beer? No, dozens!
Small 'Hausbrauereien' show how delicious beer can taste - in Berlin there are particularly a lot of these.
The article interviews and reports on a handful of the dozen or so new breweries that have cropped up in Berlin recently. The term "Hausbrauerei" is a bit of a misnomer. These are not really "home breweries," though some are located in residential areas and quite quaint. Rather the term probably closest compares to our term "Brew Pub." The term implies new, small, and craft. I'm not sure if I'd go as far as to use the word "artisan." I've still never met a German brewer that would consider himself an artisan. That distinction can be left to the Belgians.
Berlin's most common drink is Pils beer, and that general region is probably best known for Berliner Weiße and Schwarzbier, but read below for what the newcomers are serving up.
US Influence
These new breweries are a bit unconventional by German standards. Some of the Hausbrauereien have their roots in homebrewing. Making beer at home is a hobby that is not as popular in Germany as here. Remember, our homebrewing past grew out of necessity. There has never been a shortage of excellent beer in Germany - hence the lack of necessity. Most German brewers are professionally schooled and come from traditional brewing families; it is not as common to rise out of the homebrewing ranks.
The ever-present bug of homebrewing creativity shows up in these boutique breweries. Eschenbräu is a Hausbrauerei in the center of Berlin. Brewer Martin Eschenbrenner brags of using "USA Cascade Hopfen" in his "PankeGold." What? Grapefruity "C-hops" imported into the biggest hop producing country in the world? Germans are not used to non-noble hops. I'm sure it catches a few patrons off guard.
Michael Schwab of Brewbaker Hausbrauerei, a few kilometers to the south of Eschenbräu, takes creativity even further. He circumvents the famous Rheinheitsgebot with his "Pumpkin Lager," as well as "Fritz," a beer brewed with potato starch to honor the 300th birthday of the beloved Prussian King Frederick The Great. (Known as the leader that introduced potatoes to the Germanic people.)
Rheinheitsgebot
Germans are fiercely proud of their beer purity law - the Rheinheitsgebot. Most German beer bottles, especially those from Bavaria where the order originated, adorn their labels with "Gebraut nach dem deutschen/bayerischen Rheinheitsgebot." Since 1516, the world's first food quality law has guided beer production in this land.
But there is a debate in the beer-lover community. Is the Rheinheitsgebot a good thing or a bad thing? The Germans are undoubtedly the world leaders in brewing science and beer quality. Germans are engineers that brew, using the famous ordinance as their blueprint. But many argue it inhibits the brewer's creativity and flexibility. Germans can't even artificially carbonate their beers let alone use orange peel and coriander (Wit comes from Belgium), or even use roasted barley (which is not malted).
So how do these creative, new Hausbrauereien get around the Rheinheitsgebot and use ingredients such as pumpkin and potato starch? The don't call their product beer. Guinness contains a high percentage of roasted (unmalted) barley in its grain bill - definitely verboten. Eschenbräu brews a similar version of this beer, but they call it "Schwarze Molle." This means "black Molle" - Molle is a colloquial term in Berlin for a glass of beer.
Where Else?
Berlin is a very international and cosmopolitan city, so it is well suited for this new trend. But the proliferation of Hausbrauereien is not limited to the German capital. There are other new breweries like this popping up across the land, and also examples in neighboring countries.
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| Huus-Braui in Roggwil Switzerland |
While visiting Switzerland in the fall of 2009, our good friend from St. Gallen took Joycelyn and I to the "Huus-Braui" in the hamlet of Roggwil near the banks of Lake Constance. I take Huus-Braui to be the rough Swiss German equivalent of Hausbrauerei. This was a quaint little brewery with the main bar and brew house located in the cellar of an old building. There was a modestly sized beer garden outside in the front. Co-owner Marianne Hasler gave us a interesting private tour of their modern brewing facility, and then served up several very tasty beers including their Hell, Gold and Dunkel.
What about Bavaria? To be honest, I have not seen this trend spread to Bayern, nor do I expect it to. First of all, Bavaria is already flush with breweries. German has 16 states (Länder), but half of its 1300 breweries are in the single state of Bavaria. There is little room for more, and Bavarians are typically quite happy with their local breweries.
Also, Bavaria is not what I would call of progressive or cosmopolitan. Tradition reigns there. Nor are they overly concerned about trends in other parts of Germany. They are very independent people, still calling themselves Freistaat Bayern. (the free state of Bavaria) Nor do they particularly care about Berlin, or the north in general. They occasionally label their counterparts up there pagan Prussians. (technically they are Protestants) Munich is their capital, not Berlin. Bavarians pay little attention to what is going on north of the "Weißwurst equator."
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Final Thoughts
When I visit Germany I love the tradition that comes with each glass of beer. With that said, the proliferation of these less traditional Hausbrauereien appears to be a very positive movement. A little creativity never hurts. And despite the US hops and unconventional ingredients, most of these breweries still serve German staples. Pils, Weizen, Dunkles, etc.
In 2007 Joycelyn and I visited the former East Germany, and we did visit and tour a new brewery called Forsthaus Templin. Forsthaus is just south west of Berlin between Potsdam and Caputh. I'm not exactly sure if this brewery considers itself a Hausbrauerei, but at a minimum there were similarities. We enjoyed some excellent beers there with our host Sabine and her family.
And what about the Rheinheitsgebot debate? Is the Rheinheitsgebot good or bad? I concede, it does limit the flexibility of the brewer. With that said, there is still a diverse selection of German-style beers. In the end, I'll argue that you can't argue with success. This order is the foundation for a brewing culture that the rest of the world is indebted to. If I had to make a list of the best breweries and beers in the world, the top would be heavily loaded with Rheinheitsgebot entries. As people in the US argue this point, I believe the Germans have earned the right to simply say, "scoreboard."
Here is a list of some of the Hausbrauereien in Berlin. Drop me a note if you get a chance to visit any of these. The next time I'm in Berlin many of these will be on my list.
Brewbaker (http://brewbaker.de/)
Eschenbräu (http://eschenbraeu.de/)
Rollberger (http://rollberger.de/)
Brauhaus Lemke (http://www.brauhaus-lemke.com/)
Brauhaus Mitte (http://brauhaus-mitte.de)
Brauhaus Spandau (http://brauhaus-spandau.de/)
Brauhaus Südstern (http://brauhaus-suedstern.de/) Hausbrauereien
Georgbräu (http://georgbraeu.de/)
Hops & Barley (http://hopsandbarley-berlin.de/)
Schalander Hausbrauerei (http://hausbrauerei-berlin.de/)
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